“File:Spiraea cantoniensis1.jpg …” from commons.wikimedia.org and used with no modifications.
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Azaleas, Spiraea or Viburnum are among the most popular shrubs for creating a serene garden environment.
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Understanding the specific care for each plant variety ensures a thriving garden.
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Selecting the right plants for your climate zone is crucial for garden success.
Introduction
Creating a Japanese garden is like painting a landscape with living plants, each carefully selected for its harmony with the elements and the seasons. Let’s embark on a journey to understand these botanical wonders and learn how to nurture a piece of serene paradise in your own backyard.
Disclaimer: The plant list and variety descriptions included in this article are based on recommendations from Yoko Kawaguchi as found in ‘Authentic Japanese Gardens’ book. This article serves as a reference guide and does not intend to infringe upon the intellectual property rights of the author or publisher.
I. Decoding the Varieties Table: A Quick Guide
As you will see, each shrub has its own unique requirements and charms. By choosing the right plants for your garden’s conditions, you’ll be well on your way to creating a beautiful, low-maintenance space that resonates with the calming spirit of a Japanese garden.
Look at the hardiness zones to ensure the plants you fancy can thrive in your local climate. Size matters too, as you’ll want to plan for how large each shrub will grow. Features like flower color and bloom time will help you envision how your garden will look across the seasons.
|
Scientific and Common Name |
USDA Hardiness |
Features |
Size |
|---|---|---|---|
|
Corylopsis pauciflora (Buttercup Winter Hazel, Buttercup Witch Hazel)  |
Zones 6-8 |
Deciduous shrub with racemes of pale primrose yellow flowers in late winter to early spring. Leaves turn yellow in fall. |
4 to 6 feet (1.2 to 1.8 meters) |
|
Corylopsis spicata (Tosa-mizuki, Spike Winter Hazel)  |
Zones 5-8 |
Deciduous shrub with slender, pendant racemes of lemon-yellow flowers in March and April. |
1 to 2.5 meters (4 to 8 feet) height, 2 to 3 meters (6 to 10 feet) spread |
|
Daphne odora ‘Aureomarginata’ (Winter Daphne)  |
Zone 7 and higher |
Evergreen shrub with fragrant, pale-pink flowers and glossy, yellow-edged foliage. |
Up to 1.5 meters (5 feet) |
|
Deutzia gracilis (Japanese Snow Flower, Hime- utsugi)  |
Zones 5-8 |
Bushy, upright shrub with white, fragrant flowers in spring. Compact growth. |
Up to 1 meter (approximately 3 feet) |
|
Enkianthus perulatus (White Enkianthus, Dodan- tsutsuji)  |
Zones 6-8 |
Deciduous shrub with heather-like flowers in early spring and red autumn foliage. |
30 to 60 cm (1 to 2 feet) |
|
Exochorda racemosa (Common Pearlbush, Rikyubai)  |
Zones 5-8 |
Deciduous shrub with delicate, scented, white flowers in late April to May. |
Up to 4.5 meters (15 feet), can be kept compact |
|
Gardenia augusta ‘Radicans’ (Creeping Gardenia, Hime-kuchinashi)  |
Zones 8-10 |
Dwarf gardenia with waxy, heavily scented white flowers in early summer. |
30 to 60 cm (1 to 2 feet) |
|
Hibiscus mutabilis (Confederate Rose Mallow, Fuyo)  |
Zones 7-10 |
Prune stems to desired height in early spring. Tolerant of hard pruning. |
Not specified |
|
Hypericum patulum (Kinshibai)  |
Zones 6-7 |
Evergreen or semi-evergreen shrub with yellow cup-shaped flowers from August to October. |
Not specified |
|
Hydrangea macrophylla (Bigleaf Hydrangea, French Hydrangea, Lacecap Hydrangea, Hortensia)  |
Zones 5-9 |
Includes lacecap and mophead forms. Flower color changes with soil pH. |
1.5 to 2 meters (5 to 6 feet 7 inches) |
|
Hydrangea paniculata (Panicle Hydrangea, Peegee Hydrangea)  |
Zones 4-7 |
Fast-growing shrub with large, conical flower heads. |
Up to 3 meters (9 feet 9 inches) |
|
Hydrangea quercifolia (Oakleaf Hydrangea, Kashiwa-ajisai)  |
Zones 6-9 |
White to cream-colored flowers in large panicles, oak-like leaves with good autumn color. |
Up to 2 meters (6 feet) |
|
Kerria japonica (Japanese Kerria, Japanese Rose)  |
Zones 4-9 |
Bright yellow single or double flowers in spring. |
2 x 2.5 meters (6 feet 6 inches x 8 feet) |
|
Lespedeza bicolor (Japanese Bush Clover, Yama-hagi)  |
Zones 5-8 |
Tiny purple-pink flowers at the end of summer and in autumn, weeping branches. |
1.5 to 2 meters (5 to 6 feet 7 inches) |
|
Lespedeza thunbergii (‘Albiflora’, ‘Versicolor’)  |
Not specified |
‘Albiflora’ has white flowers, ‘Versicolor’ has white and rosy purple flowers. |
Not specified |
|
Loropetalum chinense (Chinese Fringe Flower, Tokiwa-mansaku)  |
Zones 7-10 |
Evergreen shrub with scented white flowers, ‘Rubrum’ has pink or red flowers. |
Not specified |
|
Osmanthus fragrans f. aurantiacus (Fragrant Olive, Sweet Olive)  |
Zones 8-10 |
Clusters of tiny orange blooms with an intense fruity scent in autumn. |
Up to 10 meters (32 feet 6 inches) |
|
Paeonia suffruticosa (Tree Peony, Moutan; Botan)  |
Zones 4-8 |
Deciduous shrub with large, beautiful flowers and shallow roots. |
Up to 2 meters (6 feet 7 inches) |
|
Philadelphus satsumi (Satsumi Mock Orange)  |
Zone 7 |
Deciduous, upright shrub with showy, scented flowers in summer. |
2 to 2.5 meters (6 to 8 feet) |
|
Rhaphiolepis umbellata (Yeddo Hawthorn, Indian Hawthorn; Sharinbai)  |
Zones 8-10, warmer areas of zone 7 |
Evergreen shrub with small, oval leaves and clusters of white flowers in early summer. |
Up to 1.5 meters (5 feet) |
|
Rhododendron indicum (Satsuki Azalea)  |
Zones 7-8 |
Small-leaved, dense, evergreen azaleas with bright pink flowers in late May. |
30 cm to 90 cm (1 to 3 feet) |
|
Rhododendron yakushimanum (Yakushima Rhododendron)  |
Typically Zones 5-8 |
Evergreen rhododendrons with big leathery leaves, slow-growing. |
Up to 4 meters (13 feet) |
|
Rhododendron Tsutsuji Group (Azaleas)  |
Not specified |
Covers all azaleas, both evergreen and deciduous, suitable for hard pruning. |
Not specified |
|
Deciduous Azaleas (R. quinquefolium, R. dilatatum, R. reticulatum, R. japonicum)  |
Zones 6-8 |
Less vigorous growth, R. quinquefolium has delicate structure and white flowers. |
Not specified |
|
Serissa foetida (Snowrose, Tree-of-a-thousand-stars, Serissa)  |
Zones 7-11 |
Semi-evergreen shrub with white flowers, leaves may drop in winter. |
60 to 120 cm (2 to 4 feet) |
|
Spiraea cantoniensis (Reeves’s Spiraea, Kodemari)  |
Zones 7-9 |
Deciduous or semi-evergreen shrub that flowers in mid-spring, can be pruned into a sphere. |
1 to 2 meters (3 feet 3 inches to 6 feet 7 inches) |
|
Spiraea japonica (Japanese Spiraea)  |
Zones 8-10 |
Clump-forming, deciduous shrub that flowers from May through July. |
1.2 to 1.8 meters (4 to 6 feet) |
|
Spiraea thunbergii (Baby’s Breath Spirea, Breath-of-Spring Spirea, Yuki-yanagi)  |
Zones 4-8 |
Flowers in early spring with trailing branches. |
1 to 1.5 meters (3 feet 3 inches to 5 feet) |
|
Stachyurus praecox (Kibushi)  |
Zones 7-8 |
Deciduous shrub with yellow flowers in March and good autumn leaf color. |
1 to 1.5 meters (3 to 5 feet) |
|
Viburnum furcatum (Forked Viburnum, Scarlet-leaved Viburnum, Mushikari)  |
Zones 5-9 |
Deciduous shrub with scented white flowers in May and good autumn color. |
Up to 3.5 meters (11 feet 2 inches) |
|
Viburnum japonicum (Hakusanboku)  |
Zones 7-9 |
Evergreen shrub with small, fragrant white flowers in early summer. |
Up to 1.8 meters (6 feet) |
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Viburnum phlebotrichum (Otoko-yozome)  |
Zone 5 |
Small white flowers, leaves turn crimson in autumn. |
Up to 2.5 meters (8 feet) |
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Viburnum plicatum (Japanese Snowball, Odemari)  |
Zones 5-8 |
Deciduous shrub with large, spherical white flowerheads. |
Up to 3 meters (9 feet 9 inches) |
“File:Kerria japonica 002 JPN.jpg …” from commons.wikipedia.org and used with no modifications.
Maintenance Tips and Guides for Each Variety
Now, let’s dive into the practical side of things. A Japanese garden is a living work of art, and like all great art, it requires care and attention. To help your garden thrive, here are some tailored maintenance tips for the different varieties of shrubs that bring life to these tranquil spaces. For an in-depth look at some of the most beautiful and traditional Japanese garden flowering trees, check out our detailed guide.
|
Scientific and Common Names |
Maintenance and Care Tips |
|---|---|
|
Corylopsis pauciflora (Buttercup Winter Hazel, Buttercup Witch Hazel) |
Low maintenance; prefers acidic, moist, well-drained soil; full sun to partial shade; prune after flowering; protect from late spring frosts |
|
Corylopsis spicata (Tosa-mizuki, Spike Winter Hazel) |
Prune immediately after flowering; thrives in acidic, humus-rich, well-drained soil; partial shade in the afternoon; protection from high winds |
|
Daphne odora ‘Aureomarginata’ (Winter Daphne) |
Prefers moist, light, acidic soil; sun or partial shade; minimal pruning; dislikes root disturbance and dry conditions |
|
Deutzia gracilis (Japanese Snow Flower, Hime-utsugi) |
Prefers well-drained soil; full sun to partial shade; prune after flowering to encourage bushy growth |
|
Enkianthus perulatus (White Enkianthus, Dodan-tsutsuji) |
Prefers rich, neutral to acidic soil; even moisture; prune immediately after flowering, cutting back to the base of a branch or shoot |
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Exochorda racemosa (Common Pearlbush, Rikyubai) |
Prefers well-drained, slightly acidic soil; prune in late winter, cutting back long branches and removing older branches at their base |
|
Gardenia augusta ‘Radicans’ (Creeping Gardenia, Hime-kuchinashi) |
Prefers humus-rich, acidic, evenly moist but well-drained soil; partial shade in the afternoons; protect from cold winds in winter |
|
Hibiscus mutabilis (Confederate Rose Mallow, Fuyo) |
Prefers full sun and well-drained soil; prune in early spring to control size and shape |
|
Hypericum patulum (Kinshibai) |
Trim lightly after flowering; rejuvenate every four or five years by cutting all stems to 20 cm (8 inches) above ground level |
|
Hydrangea macrophylla (Bigleaf Hydrangea, French Hydrangea, Lacecap Hydrangea, Hortensia) |
Prefers moist, rich soil; tolerates shade; prune flowering branches back to the next non-flowering branch immediately after flowering; rejuvenate by cutting back old stems every few years |
|
Hydrangea paniculata (Panicle Hydrangea, Peegee Hydrangea) |
Prefers partial shade, can be used for underplanting, takes well to pruning for shape or size control |
|
Hydrangea quercifolia (Oakleaf Hydrangea, Kashiwa-ajisai) |
Requires good drainage and hot summers for best blooms, prune branches that have flowered to maintain a semi-spherical shape |
|
Kerria japonica (Japanese Kerria, Japanese Rose) |
Prefers moist, rich soil, sun or partial shade, prune in early spring, rejuvenate every four or five years after flowering |
|
Lespedeza bicolor (Japanese Bush Clover, Yama-hagi) |
Prefers full sun and rich soil, prune after leaf fall, cutting back old branches to the ground and reducing younger branches by half |
|
Lespedeza thunbergii (‘Albiflora’, ‘Versicolor’) |
Cut back branches to within 10 cm (4 inches) of the ground to encourage vigorous growth and flowering |
|
Loropetalum chinense (Chinese Fringe Flower, Tokiwa-mansaku) |
Prefers humus-rich, acidic, moist, well-drained soil, prune back over-long shoots after flowering, suitable for containers, best in full sun with partial shade in the afternoon. |
|
Osmanthus fragrans f. aurantiacus (Fragrant Olive, Sweet Olive) |
Prune into a column or desired shape during winter, allow the plant to grow slightly bigger each year to encourage new growth |
|
Paeonia suffruticosa (Tree Peony, Moutan; Botan) |
Prefers sun, resents strong afternoon sunlight and dry conditions, requires humus-rich soil, dislikes root disturbance, prune flowering buds in late autumn |
|
Philadelphus satsumi (Satsumi Mock Orange) |
Frost hardy, remove older stems at the base in late autumn or early spring to encourage new growth and better flowering |
|
Rhaphiolepis umbellata (Yeddo Hawthorn, Indian Hawthorn; Sharinbai) |
Frost hardy, tolerates heavy pruning if necessary, avoid cutting back to leafless old wood, lightly clip to maintain shape after flowering, good for hedges |
|
Rhododendron indicum (Satsuki Azalea) |
Tolerant of hard pruning, requires acidic, well-drained but moisture-retentive soil, trim into shape while the last flowers are still on the plant, can be pruned hard to reduce size |
|
Rhododendron yakushimanum (Yakushima Rhododendron) |
Prefers rich, well-drained, acidic soil in half-shade, dislikes pruning and root disturbance |
|
Rhododendron Tsutsuji Group (Azaleas) |
Suitable for hard pruning, excellent for group planting and broad hedges, prune when the last flowers are still on the bush, cut back half the branches one year and the rest the next year |
|
Deciduous Azaleas (R. quinquefolium, R. dilatatum, R. reticulatum, R. japonicum) |
Tidy only if necessary to remove weak, dead, or crossed branches immediately after flowering, protect in colder zones |
|
Serissa foetida (Snowrose, Tree-of-a-thousand-stars, Serissa) |
Frost tender in the UK, prune after flowering and lightly clip again in autumn if necessary, older plants can be rejuvenated with hard pruning in April, easily propagated by cuttings |
|
Spiraea cantoniensis (Reeves’s Spiraea, Kodemari) |
Prefers rich soil and full sun, prune after flowering, cutting back to an upward-turning bud, every three years cut back old branches to fresh young growth at the base of the plant |
|
Spiraea japonica (Japanese Spiraea) |
Prefers full sun, produces autumn leaf color, dead-head for continuous flowering, cut back to 30 cm (12 inches) above ground level after flowering every three to five years to rejuvenate the plant |
|
Spiraea thunbergii (Baby’s Breath Spirea, Breath-of-Spring Spirea, Yuki-yanagi) |
Prefers full sun, remove congested stems at the base, rejuvenate older shrubs by cutting back the entire plant to within 30 cm (12 inches) immediately after flowering |
|
Stachyurus praecox (Kibushi) |
Prefers full sun to partial shade and well-drained, acidic to neutral soil, remove older flowering stems after three years to avoid overcrowding |
|
Viburnum furcatum (Forked Viburnum, Scarlet-leaved Viburnum, Mushikari) |
Prefers moist, acid to neutral soil and is tolerant of semi-shade |
|
Viburnum japonicum (Hakusanboku) |
Prefers full sun and grows fast, suitable for hard pruning |
|
Viburnum phlebotrichum (Otoko-yozome) |
Deciduous, not self-fertile |
|
Viburnum plicatum (Japanese Snowball, Odemari) |
Prefers full sun and slow growth, requires light pruning, good as a specimen plant for a front garden. |
Conclusion: The Journey to a Tranquil Garden Oasis
As we conclude this guide, remember that the journey to a tranquil garden oasis is a rewarding one. It’s a path of patience, attention to detail, and an appreciation for nature’s rhythms. Whether you’re pruning your Azaleas or admiring the delicate blooms of Spiraea, each moment spent in your Japanese garden is an opportunity for reflection and connection with the living tapestry you’ve helped to create.
Your next steps are clear: choose your plants wisely, understand their needs, and care for them with patience and respect. Embrace the changing seasons, the growth and the pruning, and the quiet joy that comes from tending to a garden. With these principles in mind, you’re well on your way to creating a Japanese garden that embodies the essence of Zen serenity.
Frequently Asked Questions
What Are the Best Japanese Garden Shrubs for Beginners?
If you’re new to the art of Japanese gardening, you’ll want to start with shrubs that are not only beautiful but also forgiving and easy to care for. Azaleas, for example, are a fantastic choice for beginners. They’re hardy, they come in a variety of colors, and they can handle pruning quite well, which is great for those still practicing their technique. Another excellent option is the Japanese Kerria, with its bright yellow flowers and simple care requirements. These shrubs will give you the confidence to grow your garden and your green thumb.
When Is the Best Time to Prune Japanese Flowering Shrubs?
The best time to prune most Japanese flowering shrubs is just after they’ve finished blooming. This allows you to shape the plant without cutting off next year’s buds. For spring bloomers like Azaleas, this typically means pruning in late spring or early summer. For summer bloomers, such as Japanese Spiraea, pruning can be done in late summer or early fall.
Pruning not only helps maintain the desired shape of the plant but also encourages fresh growth and more abundant blooms. It’s a critical step in the care of your Japanese garden shrubs, and when done correctly, it can greatly enhance the beauty and health of your garden.
Always use clean, sharp tools when pruning to make clean cuts that heal quickly, and never remove more than a third of the plant at one time to avoid stressing the shrub.
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Prune Azaleas immediately after their spring bloom to shape and encourage bushiness.
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Trim Spiraea in late summer to maintain its form and encourage a second flowering.
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Remove dead or diseased wood from Kerria japonica as soon as you notice it to keep the plant healthy.
Can Japanese Garden Shrubs Thrive in Non-Traditional Climates?
Yes, Japanese garden shrubs can indeed thrive in non-traditional climates with a little extra care and consideration. It’s all about selecting the right varieties for your climate and providing them with the conditions they need to succeed. For colder climates, choose shrubs that are hardy to your zone and provide winter protection such as mulching around the base. In hotter areas, opt for drought-tolerant varieties and ensure they have plenty of shade during the peak afternoon heat.
What Are Some Common Pests to Watch Out for in Japanese Gardens?
While Japanese gardens are known for their tranquility, they are not immune to the occasional pest problem. Common pests that can afflict your garden shrubs include aphids, which can be controlled with a strong blast of water or the use of insecticidal soap. Spider mites are another common issue, especially during dry, hot weather. Regular misting of the plants can help prevent infestations. For both pests, introducing beneficial insects like ladybugs can provide natural control.
Additionally, keep an eye out for signs of disease, such as discolored leaves or unusual spots. Fungal diseases can often be prevented with proper spacing for air circulation and by avoiding overhead watering, which can leave foliage damp and prone to infection.
By staying vigilant and responding quickly to any signs of trouble, you can keep your Japanese garden healthy and thriving.
